Everything you want from a restaurant. And a little bit more. Counter seating: check. Flexible dish sizes so you can explore the menu more fully: check. Plenty of good wines by the glass: yes indeed. The chef used to work at Moro prior to getting his name over the door at ‘Mouth of the Wolf’ - and despite the complete shift in the regionality of the food, there are similarities that are harder to put your finger on. The convivial atmosphere that gets generated by the open kitchen / bar / counter seating arrangement that both places share is my theory for what makes Moro and Boca ‘work’ as a restaurant, even before you’ve tasted the food.
As for the food - it’s well thought through and regionally inspired Italian. Not a generic version of Italian, but one which respects the provenance of ingredients, cooking techniques and traditions inherent in each dish. Best seats are at the counter in front of the chefs. Then you’re well placed to add and adapt your ordering to accommodate the dishes that most inspire as they go out. Although I don’t remember having ordered anything less than fantastic in the last three or four visits.
