The perfect culinary comfort blanket: a quietly thriving Soho institution, thankfully still doing all that made it successful in the first place. A fantastic wine list that nods to it’s wine bar heritage. A slowly rotating list of house classics (foie gras pate with toasted brioche, or potted shrimp) and spot on comfort food (meatloaf with mash, or confit duck with dauphinois), but always mixed with a few dishes even the most devoted regular won’t have seen on the menu before. Invariably you’d happily order 10 of the 12 dishes, but still end up ordering the meatloaf if it’s on (never a mistake). Fabulous staff who are interesting, and importantly, interested. Who have plenty going on beyond the day (or night) job, but who are sure there’s no better waiting job in London and are happy to be there. As am I. What’s not to like?
